Gorilla encounters
I have recently returned from Rwanda where I had the incredible opportunity to encounter the endangered mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park. I say “encounter” because what else do you call getting up close to – but not touching –these incredible creatures?
You need a permit to go gorilla trekking as the Rwandan government limits the number of people that can see these endangered animals. Each trekking group comprises of eight people so if you are a smaller group, you will be matched up with others so the group is eight people or less. I like that the gorillas are tracked naturally – by following their tracks and dung.
Let me set the scene. We begin with a briefing and some tea and coffee. We then hop back into our transport to get to the base of the mountains where we meet our porters – locals from the community – and are loaned walking sticks. We begin the hike by walking through rural farmland on the outskirts of Volcanoes National Park. It’s steep and slightly cool – it is early in the morning, after all – but the sun is shining. After about 40 minutes, we reach the boundary of the park where the real hard work begins.
Our guide, Gus, is in touch with trackers who tell him they have evidence that the gorillas are nearby…but they haven’t yet found them. We are trekking to the Hirwa family.
Up close with an adult female gorilla in the Hirwa family (that’s Gus on my left)
As we enter the park, Gus gives us a further briefing. He reminds us that we are in the mountains where we need to pack out what we need and pack it back in – we will leave nothing in the forest besides the wildlife and plant life we found there and our footprints. He talks us through what some of the gorilla babies could do. Understandably, like most young animals, they are known to be quite inquisitive and even playful. But, we are not to engage. He also teaches us the gorilla warning signs and how we should respond. What strikes me is that he says “gorillas want respect”. I love this reminder because so much of the time with wildlife encounters, humans often forget that we are imposing on an animal’s space…forgetting to respect them in the way we expect to be respected. The main point is, should the silverback take an interest or walk by you, make yourself small and show respect to him.
After squeezing our way between trees and branches, climbing through massive elephant footprints, dodging stinging nettles, huffing and puffing our way up the peaks, and slipping (literally) down mountain sides we have to hand back our walking sticks so we can finally spend some time near a gorilla family. In our case, it’s the Hirwa family.
Hirwa means lucky and that’s exactly how I feel, standing in the mountains of Rwanda, looking at a family of critically endangered mountain gorillas. I have joined a limited, lucky group of people who can say they have had this experience. I’m standing at a weird angle on the mountain side, trying to take photos and I’m terrified I’ll lose my footing and go slipping and sliding straight into the silverback gorilla who is just metres away from me. Behind me, I’ve just walked past one of the females in the family.
Eventually, we move around the family as they eat their way through this section of the forest. The babies eat and play, the silverback eats while keeping a watchful eye on his family. It’s truly an amazing experience.
We spend about an hour with the family before they start moving on and we need to head back down. We’re chattering away about how close we were to the gorillas and what we saw. We exchange stories and show each other the fantastic images we were able to capture. We’re also breathing more calmly because the hardest part of the hike is over.
This was one of the most incredible and physically challenging experiences I have had. I am amazed at Gus, the trackers, and the porters who do these hikes every single day. This particular hike was about 4.5 hours but this time could increase or decrease depending on the location of the family you will be trekking.
If you’re planning to go on this incredible trek, know that this is a proper hike so make sure you’re ready for it – with clothing and fitness levels.
What to pack
Good hiking shoes (real, sturdy ones)
Long socks
Leg covers – the stinging nettles are no joke!
A light jacket
Pack a rain coat if you’ll be trekking in the rainy season
Gardening or other strong gloves – as you hike, you may be leaning on trees and leaves and you don’t want to touch a stinging nettle
Sunscreen
Hat
Mask – there has been no reported case of COVID-19 in gorillas in the wild so the masks are to help keep them safe
Water bottle and snacks (in your bag)
Good luck and I hope you have as incredible an experience as I did.
